Scotland is picture postcard perfect with its tall mountains, forests and woodlands, moorlands, deep lochs, wildlife and a variety of festivals, such as the Up Helly Aa, which is happening on January 29, 2019. It’s grand, majestic and the biggest fire festival that is deeply entrenched in the culture of the residents of Lerwick in the Shetland Islands of Scotland.
Up Helly Aa translates to Up Holy [Day] All, the biggest annual fire festival that symbolizes the end of the Christmas season. It involves a very long torch procession of people in themed costumes called guizers, led by the main guizer or Jarl and a galley, which is a replica of a Viking long ship.
What language did the Vikings speak?
The Vikings spoke the Old Norse language, which is also called Norrœnt mál or Dǫnsk tunga. The language was once spoken in various parts of Russia, Iceland, France, Ireland, the British Isles, the Faroe Islands and Scandinavia. It was a part of the North Germanic language. The closest language to Old Norse that is spoken today is the Icelandic language, a distinct language whose written form only had very little change.
Old Norse belongs to the West Germanic branch of the Indo-European language family. English and German are part of this branch. The use of Old Norse spread due to the exploits and settlements of the Vikings in new regions. The Viking language was spoken in many lands including North America, Greenland, Byzantium (Constantinople), Russia, European mainland, British Isles, Faroe Islands, Iceland and Scandinavia (Sweden, Norway and Denmark).
The oldest inscriptions found in Scandinavia were from 2 AD. The inscriptions were written on stones in Runic script. They were also found in personal items such as swords and brooches. Many of the Runic inscriptions were discovered in Sweden and Denmark.
Iceland is home to many of the literature written in Old Norse. There are the Eddas (poems about heroes, gods and others of mythic origins), Skáld (poems that extol the virtues and exploits of patrons and kings) and Sagas (entertaining stories about historical groups and individuals).
East Norse and West Norse had divisions between 800 AD and 1050 AD. Danish and Swedish developed from East Norse. Norn (extinct), Icelandic, Faroese and Norwegian all came from West Norse.
From 793–1066 AD, which is called the Viking Age, a Runic script called Younger Futhark was the used for writing Old Norse. It was the primary alphabet in Denmark, Sweden and Norway at that time. It was largely replaced in 1200 with the Latin alphabet due to the conversion to Christianity of a large part of Scandinavia.
Meaning of Up Helly Aa
The term Up Helly Aa is a combination of Old Norse words. Up comes from uppi that means that something is ending. Helly is a festival or holy day. In the Scottish National Dictionary, helly, which probably came for helgr, is a derivative of helgi. It means a festival or a holiday in the accusative and dative case. Aa means all.
In context, it is probably a call for people to celebrate one more time to bring to a close the festive days of the Christmas season, which for them is from December 25 to January 5.
What is Up Helly Aa?
The Up Helly Aa festival used to follow the practice of tar barreling, an old Yuletide tradition. In the past groups of young men in Lerwick drag sledges carrying barrels filled with burning tar around town. But they were doing plenty of mischief and officials and residents deemed the practice dangerous, especially when the young men get drunk.
Because of the locals’ concern for public safety, they made changes on the celebration, and drew some inspiration from Viking culture, since the island is part of Vikings’ history. Tar barreling was abolished sometime between 1874 and 1880 and afterwards, torch processions were given permission. The first torch procession was held in 1876. It became a part of the Up Helly Aa in 1881.
In 1882, Alfred, the Duke of Edinburgh was scheduled to visit and the civic body of Lerwick prepared for his coming with an institutionalized and enhanced torch procession.
Seven years later, the first Viking ship replica was included in the procession and burned. In the early part of the 20th century, the Jarl, an honorary role was introduced in the Up Helly Aa festival.
But despite all the claims of the festival being of ancient origin, it was actually a festival created in the 1870s by the Total Abstinence Society, to prevent the young men who do silly things especially once they get drunk.
Up Helly Aa today
The Up Helly Aa festival happens in many locations in Shetland, with the biggest being in Lerwick. Smaller yet still grand events are held in Delting, South Mainland, Norwick, Cullivoe, Bressay, Northmavine, Uyeasound, Nesting and Girlsta and Scalloway. When the procession is over, the guizer squads troop to local halls such as hotels, sports facilities and schools where private parties are hosted. Each guizer squad is required to perform their skit at each hall, which covers a variety of entertainment acts, such as popular films or TV shows, local events or plain dancing and singing.
The characters
Aside for the long torch procession that culminates with the burning of the galley, Up Helly Aa becomes more interesting when you get to know the characters, the long preparation involved in staging the festival and other details.
The Guizer Jarl is the principal character in the festival. For the day, he takes on the legendary name of a Norse personality. There is a condition attached to become the main guizer. He should be a member of a special committee for 15 years before he is eligible for selection as a jarl. Moreover, only one person is accepted to the committee every year.
The supporters of the Guizer Jarl are called the Jarl Squad, who in turn will manage the procession participants, termed the guizers. The number of procession participants typically reaches more than 1,000.
The Galley which is a smaller replica of a Viking long ship (also called a dragon ship) strictly follows the design that was made by a local boat builder in the 1950s. Only the decorations and the paint color change each year. About 30 volunteers help in the galley’s construction, which starts in October. The Guizer Jarl decides on the color of the ship and the designs of the different shields that the guizers will carry. The squads will also be carrying weapons of their choice, from cross bows to axes to spears and swords.
Preparation for the entire event typically takes about a year, with thousands of volunteers lending their time to ensure that their festival will be spectacular. But some of the preparations, particularly those from the participants, are done in secret. Utmost secrecy is kept regarding the Viking costume of the Guizer Jarl as well as the Viking character he will be representing.
Main event
The Procession requires timing. Prior to the procession, about 1,000 men disguised in their chosen costumes form squads (about 40 squads) in the darkened streets of Lerwick. Only the Guizer Jarl is allowed to wear a Viking costume. Each guizer squad has its own theme and dresses accordingly. The theme ranges from satirical, topical or historical. The women do not participate in the procession. They become the organizers, hosts, caterers and servers at the different hall.
Each guizer will be carrying a stout torch. Its top will have sacking soaked in paraffin. At 7:30 pm, a signal is given from the town hall and the guizers will light their torches. The band will start playing and the procession begins. They will be pulling the galley from where the Guizer Jarl stands proudly.
End of the procession or the Circle Round the Galley is the time when the procession reaches the designated spot. Participants will sing the Up Helly Aa song after circling the galley. The Guizer Jarl leaves the ship at this point, accompanied by cheers from the guizers.
Burning the Galley happens after they finished the song and the bugle has sounded. They will all throw their torches into the long ship. When the fire dies down, they will sing The Norseman’s Home, a traditional song. They will then head over to the halls to spend the entire night eating, drinking, partying and spending time with friends. All the guizer squads will visit all the halls in turn, which is why the partying can last until the morning. Thankfully, the following day is a holiday.
Right after celebrating the grandest fire festival to welcome the lightening of the days in Shetland Isles, meetings and discussions will begin in early February to prepare for the next Up Helly Aa, which is a culmination of one year of voluntary work.
While the Up Helly Aa in Lerwick occurs on the last Tuesday of January, it is still possible to see a similar event around the Shetland Isles until March.
Add more excitement to your travel experience
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